BURNING DOWN THE HOUSE-Sinus-clearing at Grand Sichuan (NY PRESS)

Grand Sichuan NY flirts with the feel of a suburban Chinese restaurant. Order from the “American Chinese” menu and the fantasy is complete. But order from the Sichuan half and your tingling taste buds will shake the reverie and plunk you down into Sichuan province (or at least, into one of the best Sichuan restaurants in New York). Part of the citywide Grand Sichuan empire, this modest Murray Hill branch stands a step above, even though it often falls into the shadow of its better known Chelsea sibling.

Since it’s not a destination restaurant (though it should be), you never have to wait in line. The crowd ranges from large groups of noisy Chinese men to middle-aged couples eating egg rolls and lo mein. The staff is friendly and attentive, but don’t expect them to explain the menu. It’s best to jump in blindly, which happily tends to work out.

Many Chinese restaurants purport to serve Sichuan dishes, but few prepare them the way they’re supposed to be made—laden with chilies and infused with the tongue-numbing smokiness of the Sichuan peppercorn. Chinese Five Spice, a fragrant mixture of star anise, cinnamon, fennel, cloves and the aforementioned peppercorn, is another favorite seasoning. Throw in some ginger and garlic, and you have a good sense of the pungent flavors of Sichuan food. Beware: It’s not for the timid.

Begin by sampling the whole spinach with fresh ginger sauce ($6.25), or the cucumber with fresh garlic ($6.25). Both dishes are served cold and offer a nice refreshing start to a spicy meal.

When ordering the main course, the path diverges in two—hot pot or an assortment of entrees. Hot pot is a wonderful dish when group dining. A large boiling pot of liquid is brought to the table and set on a gas range. You then order a variety of ingredients, which will all be cooked at the table. I suggest ordering the “half and half” pot—it’s the perfect yin and yang of cooking liquids. The pot is split in two—one side is chili oil seasoned with Five Spice, the other is a mild clear broth. For a group of four, seven to eight dipping ingredients is a good number.

Next you pick from meat (called “pork” on the menu), seafood ($6.25 an item) or vegetables ($3.00 a plate): the thinly shaven beef and pork cooks almost instantly and melts in your mouth; the dried Chinese sausage has a sweet, fruity flavor and the yolk of the tiny quail eggs turns molten in the broth; the fish balls have a nice, firm texture and subtle fish flavor; the Napa cabbage and pea shoots turn sweet when cooked, and the black fungus, a slippery and slightly crunchy mushroom, is a novel textural contrast. Other options include sliced lamb, beef balls, sea cucumber, shrimp, squid, clam, tofu, bamboo shoots, loofah, spinach, leek and winter melon.

If you’re feeling courageous, try the pork kidney, duck tongue, pork intestine or the truly mysterious “Luncheon Meat.” Choose a few dipping sauces ($1.95 each) like the garlic sauce, which is made from fresh-grated garlic and sesame oil, or the Sha Cha sauce, a spicy and fishy barbecue sauce. Ordering rice is a wise investment. Hot pot often feels like a feast, but on a recent night with three friends the dinner totaled $14.50 per person, including tip. There’s nothing better than a cheap gustatory extravaganza.

Even if you choose to forego the hot pot route, you won’t be disappointed. Braised beef fillet with chili sauce ($10.95) features thin, velvety slices of beef, simmered in chili oil, garlic and peppercorns, resting on a bed of cooked Napa cabbage. The tangy spice is addictive. For a milder dish, try the double-cooked pork with sweet bean sauce ($9.95) or the Guizhou spicy fresh chicken ($12.95). Both dishes are slightly sweet. Any chicken dish can be ordered with “fresh” chicken, which means freshly killed. Choose that.

Ma Po Tofu ($8.95), a classic of Sichuan cooking, is a comforting and tender tofu dish topped with chili oil and ground pork. The sautéed and dried string beans with minced pork ($8.95) is made from long, thin, Chinese-style string beans that are cooked to a chewy perfection. Sautéed pea shoots ($12.95) are mild and fresh.

Though you may not want to eat here before a hot date, a visit never fails to clear the sinuses or wake up the palate. Just make sure you have a beer or cup of tea in hand before you start. You’ll need it to extinguish the flames.


Grand Sichuan NY

227 Lexington Ave. (betw. 33rd & 34th St.)

212-679-9770